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Microbiologists have been growing microbes on agar plates for nearly 150 years, but agar’s discovery dates back to a happy accident in a mid-17th-century kitchen. Legend has it that on a cold winter day, a Japanese innkeeper cooked tokoroten soup, a Chinese agar seaweed recipe known in Japan for centuries. After the meal, the innkeeper discarded the leftovers outside and noticed the next morning that the sun had turned the defrosting jelly into a porous mass. Intrigued, the innkeeper was said to have boiled the substance again, reconstituting the jelly. Since this discovery, agar has become a staple in many Japanese desserts, from yokan to anmitsu.
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“Some things don’t change,” Milner says with a chuckle when asked whether his desire to prove people wrong was as strong as ever after his 40th birthday last month. “There’s people who are always going to doubt you but that’s always something that’s been at my forefront: to prove them wrong.”